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When painting sometimes its best to step back

I dont know if other artists suffer from this but I do.

When painting a sculpt, I paint in multiple layers. I paint the primer coat on the piece, a base skin tone, various noodled skin tones, veining, so on and so forth. Building up layer upon layer to get a (hopefully) realistic skin tone. After that is done I will usually finish the final layer or 2 by hand with a brush. The initial skin tone layers are all done with an airbrush. They dry relatively fast so I can usually paint them in an afternoon. By that evening I can begin the hand painting. I’m in a bit of a hurry at times due to my massive coffee drinking habit.

What happens is that I fail to realize sometimes that I am nearly ruining what I have laid down in my skin tones at times. Covering them up by being to heavy handed with the brush and final break down layers I add.

Woe Skin Tone frontWoe Skin Tone SideWoe Skin Final

The above three picture (pardon the blurry pics they were reference pics I take tons of these when working and I generally dont post them online) show a piece I did a year or two ago. I was looking at this piece today as I was in the shop and it has always bothered me. I spent hours on the base skin tones and veining. I then proceeded to crush it with way to much color and noise on top of it in my opinion. If I had made the base skin tones and veining with more contrast it may have helped.

I have since taught myself to have a lot more patience when painting and to have a softer hand on my top most layers. I can always add more paint but taking it away is impossible.

This piece sits on my shelf of pieces I will never finish or try to sell. They all have taught me valuable lessons, and sometimes I pick them up and inspect them. As I have learned more as time has passed they teach me a bit more.

The moral of the story – Sometimes when I work in the studio I can’t see the forest for the trees.

Acrylic Paints and Thinning Them for Airbrushing

A collection of cans of paint and other relate...

Image via Wikipedia

I will start this off by stating that this article is completely my opinion and what I have learned and figured out over time in my shop, and through lots of research.

I use primarily Liquitex Softbody Acrylics in my studio. I do this because Liquitex makes paints with very good pigment load, lightfastness, flexibility, and durability. I can also thin them with airbrush medium and use them in my airbrush.  The other paints I use in my studio a lot are acrylic inks, either Liquitex acrylic inks or FW-inks. Once in a while I still use inexpensive craft acrylics but only as a primer or undercoat or on a test piece, or concept, or when I need a very specific color and am lazy, too lazy to mix it up. I can also use the softbody acrylic when doing brushwork, so I only need to stock one kind of paint.

Terms
Pigment load: Acrylic paints consist of acrylic polymer emulsion (binder) and pigment. The ratio between binder and pigment is generally called pigment load. The more pigment in relation to binder the higher the pigment load.

Lightfastness: The ability of the paint/pigment to remain unchanged after prolonged exposure to light.

Thinning paints for airbrushing.

Types of thinners

Airbrush medium: A mixture of acrylic emulsion (clear acrylic paint, acrylic polymer), and flow aid (reduces surface tension, reduces tip dry). A good choice for most applications.

Distilled water: H2o. Reduces pigment concentration and color strength. Depending on substrate and amount of thinning required may be suitable for some projects.

My thoughts on thinning paints:

Acrylic paints are made up of an acrylic polymer emulsion(clear acrylic paint) and pigment. When airbrushing with acrylics you need to thin them somehow. If you were to add just water to them you end up stretching the acrylic emulsion to much. If you stretch the emulsion to much the acrylic paint has a tendency to crack and peel over time after it dries.  If you think about it, what happens when you airbrush is you are spraying out tiny little droplets of paint onto the surface of your artwork. Water has lots of surface tension, if you have a lot of surface tension in those droplets of paint you get spatter. Spatter will cause runs on the surface of your artwork. After all you have a water trap on your airbrush, why would you thin your paints with water? You could use alcohol it has low surface tension. Some airbrush artists use windshield wiper fluid to thin acrylic paints. I have a hard time recommending this. Windshield wiper fluid contains large amounts of ammonia and alcohol these will evaporate, what you end up with is a very thin layer of acrylic emulsion that is stretched too thin.

What you need to thin your acrylic paints with is something designed for this purpose, airbrush medium. What airbrush medium contains is acrylic emulsion and flow aid. Flow aid reduces surface tension which reduces spatter and airbrush clogging and also retards drying time, which keeps the tip of your airbrush needle wet during use.

While I could just buy acrylics that are already made for airbrushing, I would then have to buy 2 kinds of paints for my studio/shop. There is a benefit to this of course, I would remove some of the frustration I encounter on occasion when I don’t add enough paint or medium and clog up my airbrush, or make the paint too thin.

Acrylic Paints and Thinning Them for Airbrushing

Online Art Critique: Giving Criticism

There’s nothing more valuable and more damaging to artistic development than a critique. On the valuable side, critiques provide third-party insight, opportunities to reevaluate processes, and suggestions for growth. On the damaging side, critiques can cause us to shelter our work, prevent us from taking bold steps that produce new directions, and punch our fragile artistic ego in the face.

How can we maximize the value of the critiquing process while minimizing the damage done to our creative spirit? Let’s start with discussing how to give a critique.

As a critic, your job is not to hack art to shreds and burn down the dreams of others, but to provide real and usable feedback that can be used to improve both a work of art and bolster creativity. This isn’t to say that you can’t be honest, but it’s always better to consider how your comments might be taken before you hand them out. This is an important rule to remember.

Too many artists abandon the learning opportunities available through online communities because of the heavy-handed remarks and unrestrained critiquing of a few inexperienced critics. If you want to support your art community and create and maintain an atmosphere of respect (that extends to you as well), you have to be respectful.

Know When to Critique

Bad day at work? Tough meeting with a client? Haven’t had anything to eat in 12 hours? It’s probably not a good idea to jump in and start offering advice when your body and mind are out of alignment. Critiquing is best committed to when the noise of daily living has quieted down and your personal pressures are eased.

The last thing you want to do is use an artist’s work as your personal punching bag. Critiquing is not a stress-relieving exercise. You’ll only build a poor reputation and anything you have to share of value will go ignored.

Pick  One Issue

There exists a tendency to want to shotgun multiple issues in a single critique. For those artists with some skill in critiquing, this isn’t a problem and can be handled without offending the artist. For those inexperienced with the process, stacking issues on top of each other can quickly defeat the whole purpose of the critique (and potentially ruin relationships).

It’s always best to pick one issue – the issue that stands out to you the most – and make that the focus of your comments. You’ll be offering some much-needed assistance without alienating the artist.

Be Objective

Some critiques are of little value to the artist. These are typically subjective critiques and have no real bearing one way or the other on the outcome of the artwork because they’re not about the artwork. Subjective comments are about you.

You have to remember that you’re not the artist of the work. And telling the artist what’s wrong or what you would change based entirely on what you would do if you were the artist is not the best solution. The artwork belongs to someone else and it’s that artist’s vision you should be supporting.

If you want to make a subjective comment, remind the artist that it’s purely your opinion and should be considered or discarded as needed.

Be Brief

When offering advice to an artist, be quick. Don’t prattle on for five paragraphs about something that can be addressed in three sentences. The longer you take to make your point the more likely the artist is going to think you’re being unfairly heavy-handed with your comments.

The PCP Model

It might sound like something out of an employee manual, but the Praise-Correct-Praise model of critiquing is worth trying. That’s because it works. Compliment that artist on something that’s positive in the artwork – something that stands out as being a great foundation to build on. Next, offer your suggestion for improvement. Follow your suggestion with another compliment or reinforce your earlier compliment.

By sandwiching something that might be viewed as a negative remark by the artist between two positive remarks, you soften the blow an honest critique might land on the artist’s ego.

It’s always easier to give a critique than to receive one. Next, we’ll prep your art and your ego to for the critiquing process.

King Unicorn is a guest blogger here at Grimvisions. You can see more of his work at http://kingunicorn.blogspot.com/

Automata Mastery – Thomas J Kuntz

I have always been amazed at Automata. I had some relatives that made some very intracate mechanical toys and devices.
Small mechanical wonders that would move and spin as you turned the handle or crank. Somewhere in my boxes of junk I have a piece that continues to amaze me to this day. I have no idea how it works and am hesitant to take it apart. It is a upright piano with a wooden man seated on the piano bench and several characters standing around it etc… as you turn the handle they all do various things and move around, the piano man plays the piano. One of my Fathers uncles made it. On the back of it there is a small piece of missing wood and I can see some of the internal workings, inside there is an amazing array of rods and cranks and levers. It boggles my mind.

I search the web for similar pieces sometimes, somewhere I found the work of Thomas J. Kuntz.

Unlike the quaint automatons of old which usually served as cheeky entertainment and used “found” doll parts in the process in addition to the skills of many specialized artists to complete them. Kuntz does all the work himself to keep the focus and spirit of each piece as it was originally conceived. The focus is on sculpture and the mechanical contrivances are a means to a magickal end. His Personal works are often dark and satirical and are the only of their kind in the world. They have found their way into special collections around the world.

What he does is nothing short of amazing. Inspiring….